marchisio

Newspaper’s article of our member Lodovico Marchisio

In the following web link there is the article of our member Lodovico Marchisio, on the AostaCronaca.it newspaper, as evidence of passion (and the therapeutic role) of the mountains (even if no longer lived at 4000 meters), following a highly disabling pathology.

The article, in Italian, can be read here

marchisio

A new finisher

Sergio De Leo, mountaineer and mountain photographer.

From the website he edited (https://www.sergiodeleo.com), we draw the following biographical notes: he was born and lives in Aosta.

A great connoisseur of the Aosta Valley environments and mountains, who has been attending for over thirty-five years, he carries out an intense mountaineering activity throughout the Alps. Although he is not a mountain professional, he can boast a very respectable curriculum: he has in fact most of the great high difficulty itineraries of the Western Alps with the triptych par excellence: the north of the Grandes Jorasses, the Matterhorn and the Eiger.

In particular, the Macintyre and Plein sud (new route) at the Jorasses and the direct Bonatti al Cervino (second Italian), as well as some winter firsts and new routes.

He has made expeditions to the Himalayas, Alaska, Kenya and the Andes: many prestigious peaks climbed on these occasions, including five 8000m peaks and three different routes to Fitz Roy, in Patagonia.

Since 2006 he has been an academic of the CAI.

To the passion for the high mountains he combines that for photography: he has set up a personal exhibition entitled "Spaces and silences". Numerous images, together with texts, publications for sector magazines. It offers evenings and presentations with the shots taken both during the activity in the Alps and during the extra-European expeditions.

To Sergio goes to the warmest congratulations from the Club 4000 Board for having climbed all 82 4000 of the Alps with the Lauteraarhorn climb!

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At 90 years old on the Breithorn, always looking forward

At 90 years old on the Breithorn, always looking forward   It is not the membership number of our Club (403), but the year of birth (1930) that amazes us. In effect Roberto Cantù, born in Milan but resident in Segrate, who will turn 91 on August 13, continues to frequent the mountains, and not just for walks (which, of course, would be a great thing ...). So, on 22 July, with his nephew Massimo and the guide Jacopo Zezza, he went up from Cervinia with the lifts (cable car and then, skis, with the ski lifts) up to Colle del Breithorn (3866 m), to then aim for on foot to the summit of Western Breithorn (4165 m).

He "contented himself" with stopping at the shoulder at an altitude of 4100 m, so as not to risk missing the cable car on his return. "Certainly not because I was short of breath," he tells us, in a very pleasant and long chat, when we reach him on the phone. «In fact, if we look at the pulsations», Roberto continues, «I always have them regular at 120 beats».

This is his 71 ascent above 4000 meters, and he tells us that it will also be the last. But he continues to go to the mountains all right: about once every two weeks, overcoming highly respectable daily differences in height (at 87 he was awarded the “Scarponcino d'oro”, which goes to the oldest who, in three social outings in three different excursions , has passed the various "tests", each time reaching a thousand meters in altitude).

On the other hand, Roberto has frequented the mountains since he was a child: at the age of 6 he was already sleeping at the Brioschi refuge on the Grignone; at 16 he climbed the Bernina, his first four thousand, and at 19 the Matterhorn from the Italian route (staying overnight at the Carrel hut, at 13 he was already returning to Cervinia, ready to go dancing ...).

In all, he reached 35 four-thousanders (here the list of his climbs), with not a few noteworthy exploits: among others, the south face of Punta Parrot, the spur of Brenva, the Rey ridge at Dufour, the south ridge of the Lyskamm.

Representative in the textile field for 49 years, married without children for 40 (his wife moved on in 2005), member of CAI SEM (Milanese excursionist society), Roberto continues to be very active in the field of volunteering (the Municipality of Segrate has awarded the Ape d'oro, equivalent to the Milanese Ambrogino). He is also a great practitioner of skiing in all its forms: from participation in large ski mountaineering rallies, to ski competitions (again in 2017 he became Italian champion for the master category in giant slalom).

His secret? Always be on the move and always look forward, towards the future. On the other hand, he bought a hybrid car already eight years ago ...  

The warmest and most heartfelt congratulations from all the Club4000 Board of Directors go to Roberto Cantù    

Luca Gibello

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Two new finishers

The Altavia 4000 project gives us two finishers

As stated in their blog, with the Altavia 4000 project they didn't want to chase records. However, despite the pitfalls of a season with very unstable weather and ever less decipherable mountain conditions, they didn't go that far. If, in fact, in 2008, our partners Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini climbed all 4000 in 60 days, Nicola Castagna (26 years) and Gabriel Perenzoni (37 years), also from Trentino and both aspiring mountain guides, have employed 80 days to complete the project. Starting on May 4 with the ascent to the Gran Paradiso on skis (with which they climbed the first 30 peaks in as many days, before taking a week of forced rest, waiting for conditions to improve), the two concluded the ride on 22 July on the peaks of the Bernese Oberland with the Schreckhorn-Lauteraarhorn traverse.

Nicola Castagna, who is the youngest to have completed the 82 4000 collection, was trained at 15 at the Liceo della Montagna in Tione (Trento), under the aegis of Ermanno Salvaterra, with whom he made expeditions to Patagonia. In addition, he has to his credit the ascent of the North Face of the Eiger and various climbs in the United States.

Similarly, Gabriel Perenzoni has frequented the mountains since childhood, with agonistic past in alpine skiing at the age of 16, and experiences of the great international pilgrimage routes, before moving on to the most famous ski mountaineering competitions and ultra trails, from the Trophy Mezzalama at the Tor de Geant.

To them go the warmest congratulations of the Board of the Club4000.

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2021 Calendar

Pictures request for the Club 4000 calendar

Invite to all members to submit their photos

 

Even for the 2022, the Club4000 will publish the mountaineering calendar that will be, as usual, in vertical and color format. 

Please send your photos (maximum 5) of the last 5 years, before Saturday, 31st July 2021, to the email address:

 

raccoltafoto@club4000.club

 
It is important to adjust the camera settings as described below:

  • set the highest resolution allowed
  • set the resolution of the picture to the highest value allowed. The minimum size is 2400 x 3600 pixels. Please make attention to the photos taken on your mobile phone: some devices shouldn’t have an enough resolution to fit the printed page.

We still remember the vertical format of the photos.

Happy mountaineering season to members and look forward to your photos!!!

2021 Calendar

Il Club 4000, Gruppo del Club Alpino Italiano, sezione di Torino, riunisce gli alpinisti che hanno salito almeno 30 vette superiori ai 4000 m sulle 82 dell'elenco ufficiale UIAA.

Il Club 4000 vuol essere il punto di riferimento e di incontro per scambi di informazioni, documentazione ed esperienze

tra i praticanti l'alpinismo in alta quota con particolare riferimento alle vette delle Alpi superiori ai 4000 metri.

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