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At 90 years old on the Breithorn, always looking forward

At 90 years old on the Breithorn, always looking forward   It is not the membership number of our Club (403), but the year of birth (1930) that amazes us. In effect Roberto Cantù, born in Milan but resident in Segrate, who will turn 91 on August 13, continues to frequent the mountains, and not just for walks (which, of course, would be a great thing ...). So, on 22 July, with his nephew Massimo and the guide Jacopo Zezza, he went up from Cervinia with the lifts (cable car and then, skis, with the ski lifts) up to Colle del Breithorn (3866 m), to then aim for on foot to the summit of Western Breithorn (4165 m).

He "contented himself" with stopping at the shoulder at an altitude of 4100 m, so as not to risk missing the cable car on his return. "Certainly not because I was short of breath," he tells us, in a very pleasant and long chat, when we reach him on the phone. «In fact, if we look at the pulsations», Roberto continues, «I always have them regular at 120 beats».

This is his 71 ascent above 4000 meters, and he tells us that it will also be the last. But he continues to go to the mountains all right: about once every two weeks, overcoming highly respectable daily differences in height (at 87 he was awarded the “Scarponcino d'oro”, which goes to the oldest who, in three social outings in three different excursions , has passed the various "tests", each time reaching a thousand meters in altitude).

On the other hand, Roberto has frequented the mountains since he was a child: at the age of 6 he was already sleeping at the Brioschi refuge on the Grignone; at 16 he climbed the Bernina, his first four thousand, and at 19 the Matterhorn from the Italian route (staying overnight at the Carrel hut, at 13 he was already returning to Cervinia, ready to go dancing ...).

In all, he reached 35 four-thousanders (here the list of his climbs), with not a few noteworthy exploits: among others, the south face of Punta Parrot, the spur of Brenva, the Rey ridge at Dufour, the south ridge of the Lyskamm.

Representative in the textile field for 49 years, married without children for 40 (his wife moved on in 2005), member of CAI SEM (Milanese excursionist society), Roberto continues to be very active in the field of volunteering (the Municipality of Segrate has awarded the Ape d'oro, equivalent to the Milanese Ambrogino). He is also a great practitioner of skiing in all its forms: from participation in large ski mountaineering rallies, to ski competitions (again in 2017 he became Italian champion for the master category in giant slalom).

His secret? Always be on the move and always look forward, towards the future. On the other hand, he bought a hybrid car already eight years ago ...  

The warmest and most heartfelt congratulations from all the Club4000 Board of Directors go to Roberto Cantù    

Luca Gibello

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Two new finishers

The Altavia 4000 project gives us two finishers

As stated in their blog, with the Altavia 4000 project they didn't want to chase records. However, despite the pitfalls of a season with very unstable weather and ever less decipherable mountain conditions, they didn't go that far. If, in fact, in 2008, our partners Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini climbed all 4000 in 60 days, Nicola Castagna (26 years) and Gabriel Perenzoni (37 years), also from Trentino and both aspiring mountain guides, have employed 80 days to complete the project. Starting on May 4 with the ascent to the Gran Paradiso on skis (with which they climbed the first 30 peaks in as many days, before taking a week of forced rest, waiting for conditions to improve), the two concluded the ride on 22 July on the peaks of the Bernese Oberland with the Schreckhorn-Lauteraarhorn traverse.

Nicola Castagna, who is the youngest to have completed the 82 4000 collection, was trained at 15 at the Liceo della Montagna in Tione (Trento), under the aegis of Ermanno Salvaterra, with whom he made expeditions to Patagonia. In addition, he has to his credit the ascent of the North Face of the Eiger and various climbs in the United States.

Similarly, Gabriel Perenzoni has frequented the mountains since childhood, with agonistic past in alpine skiing at the age of 16, and experiences of the great international pilgrimage routes, before moving on to the most famous ski mountaineering competitions and ultra trails, from the Trophy Mezzalama at the Tor de Geant.

To them go the warmest congratulations of the Board of the Club4000.

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2021 Calendar

Pictures request for the Club 4000 calendar

Invite to all members to submit their photos

 

Even for the 2022, the Club4000 will publish the mountaineering calendar that will be, as usual, in vertical and color format. 

Please send your photos (maximum 5) of the last 5 years, before Saturday, 31st July 2021, to the email address:

 

raccoltafoto@club4000.club

 
It is important to adjust the camera settings as described below:

  • set the highest resolution allowed
  • set the resolution of the picture to the highest value allowed. The minimum size is 2400 x 3600 pixels. Please make attention to the photos taken on your mobile phone: some devices shouldn’t have an enough resolution to fit the printed page.

We still remember the vertical format of the photos.

Happy mountaineering season to members and look forward to your photos!!!

2021 Calendar

Communication about the Quintino Sella hut

We inform the members that, on 16/10/2020, Club 4000 sent a letter to CAI Turin in which it is specified that the Board, after a internal discussion, has resolved that, starting from 1/11/2020, will no longer carry out any function regarding the Quintino Sella hut.

The troubled resolution depends on the progressive marginalization of the mentioned Club with respect to the decisions on the management and maintenance of the historic alpine hut, consequent to the conclusion of the restoration works.

However, the Board declared its readiness to discuss with the new Sectional Presidency and the Refuge Commission to better illustrate its positions on that.

Calendario 2021

2021 Calendars

Calendario 2021

 

This year the calendars will be sold exclusively by the Libreria della Montagna in Turin, where you can buy them in Via sacchi, 28 bis, or write or call the bookshop info@librerialamontagna.it - ​​0115620024, to have them sent to you.

Costs:

15.00 € cover price

13.30 € to Cai members

12.00 € to Club 4000 members

 

Shipping cost depending on the quantity and any international shipping, to be checked with the bookshop.

2020 annual meeting canceled

The 2020 annual meeting has been CANCELED

The trend of the pandemic is there for all to see, unfortunately we are witnessing a worse gradation of the situation.

In this scenario, also complicated by the government and regional amendments, we thought it appropriate to cancel the meeting.

It seemed to us that there were no minimum conditions for organizing it, neither for safety nor for serenity.

All that remains is to hope that this criticality passes as quickly as possible!

See you next year!

Andrea-Lanfri-Massimo-Coda

A leg in two for the 2020 honorary members of the Club

“Two men and one leg”: with self-irony about their condition, but above all with tenacity and determination, they are reaching extraordinary goals. It is really true that, as one of them reports on his website, "the limits are only in our mind". This is Andrea Lanfri, from Lucca, born in 1986, who at 29 contracts meningitis with meningococcal sepsis. After a month of coma he loses both legs and seven fingers. Thanks to the willpower and passion for sport, within a year he returns to his former life, approaching paralymipic athletics, starting to run with a pair of carbon fiber prostheses, purchased thanks to a fundraiser. First Italian athlete with double amputation of the lower limbs to go below 12 seconds in the 100 flat meters, he conquers three national records, two bronze medals, together with a silver at the European Championships, and a silver at the 2017 World Championships. In the same year he also returns to beloved mountain, already practiced before the illness: climbing and mountaineering, and begins to dream of climbing Everest. In 2018 he began his preparation with mountains over 5000 meters (Chimborazo volcano in Ecuador). He is the first multi-amputation athlete to reach an altitude of 7300 meters (Putha Hiunchiuli in Nepal).

The other protagonist of the story is Massimo (Max) Coda, from Biella, born in 1970, who in 2010 was the victim of a serious accident in the mountains that compromised the functionality of his right leg. After an ordeal that lasted 8 years and 16 surgeries, with months of forced bed rest and the definitive loss of correct walking, despite the apparent recovery, in 2018 he decided to have his right limb amputated to return to climbing and climbing. Mountain climbing.

Both returned to full possession of their lives thanks to the prostheses, the two met during a race in Liguria at the beginning of 2019 and, given the common passion, they decide to climb together, without resorting to other rope companions. Thus, this year, in total autonomy, they launch the ambitious #fivepeaks 2020 project: reaching the peaks of Gran Paradiso, Mont Blanc, Punta Gnifetti, Monviso and Cervino. Only on the Gran Becca did they stop before the summit, at Pic Tyndall.

This is why the Club4000 board of directors has decided to appoint Lanfri and Coda as honorary members for 2020. Thinking of these extraordinary people who, barring Covid impediments, we will celebrate at the shareholders' meeting, scheduled for Saturday 21 November in Turin , one cannot fail to mention Oliviero Bellinzani (1955-2015), the "man with wings", already appointed honorary member of the Club, capable of climbing 21 four thousand peaks with an artificial limb.

Andrea-Lanfri-Massimo-Coda
Barre des Ecrins

Barre and Dôme des Écrins are unreachable

The ascent to the westernmost and southernmost giant of the Alps, in the Dauphiné (France), has been strongly discouraged for some weeks.

The usual path of the normal route had been already replaced since the beginning of the season by one that developed to the left of the notorious glacial ramp (because this ramp is under the great seracs that were, in the meantime, partially collapsed).

Then, on 29th July, the alternative route was also the subject of a collapse of other ice masses, which resulted in the death of 4 climbers.

Since then, the ascent to the summit from the side of the Écrins refuge has been unofficially prohibited.

The Club is now made up of 15 nations!

With the joining of the Polish Ewa Katarzyna Slubicka, the nations represented by our association increase to 15.

Of the 522 current members, the largest group is obviously represented by the Italians (421), followed by Swiss (45) and French (17).

In the queue, Poland now keeps company with Sweden and Albania.

Ewa Katarzyna Slubicka (born in 1961, however resident in Turin) reached 31 peaks, mainly in the company of the mountain guide Gianni Predan and other usual climbing partners.

Foto Assemblea

Annual meeting and social dinner 2020

Saturday, 21st November 2020, 18.30

The usual annual meeting of the Club 4000 will be held in Turin, at the CAI Meeting Center at Monte dei Cappuccini, Ascent to CAI Torino Road, 12 (formerly Via Giardino) in Turin, starting at 18.30.

During the meeting, the photographs sent by the members to create the traditional 2021 Calendar will be shown, which will be available for purchase at a heavily discounted price.

The Assembly will also be an occasion for members to speak with comments and suggestions.

At 20.30 the traditional SOCIAL DINNER will follow at the restaurant of the same meeting center.

The reservation must be made by November 10 at the following address:

 

info@club4000.club

 

We hope many of you will come!!

 

PS: This is the general program, obviously it will have to be confirmed according to the trend of the sanitary crisis we are experiencing. New updates will be published on the site as the date approaches, stay tuned !!!

Il Club 4000, Gruppo del Club Alpino Italiano, sezione di Torino, riunisce gli alpinisti che hanno salito almeno 30 vette superiori ai 4000 m sulle 82 dell'elenco ufficiale UIAA.

Il Club 4000 vuol essere il punto di riferimento e di incontro per scambi di informazioni, documentazione ed esperienze

tra i praticanti l'alpinismo in alta quota con particolare riferimento alle vette delle Alpi superiori ai 4000 metri.

© 2019 CAI Torino Tutti i diritti riservati.