A leg in two for the 2020 honorary members of the Club

“Two men and one leg”: with self-irony about their condition, but above all with tenacity and determination, they are reaching extraordinary goals. It is really true that, as one of them reports on his website, "the limits are only in our mind". This is Andrea Lanfri, from Lucca, born in 1986, who at 29 contracts meningitis with meningococcal sepsis. After a month of coma he loses both legs and seven fingers. Thanks to the willpower and passion for sport, within a year he returns to his former life, approaching paralymipic athletics, starting to run with a pair of carbon fiber prostheses, purchased thanks to a fundraiser. First Italian athlete with double amputation of the lower limbs to go below 12 seconds in the 100 flat meters, he conquers three national records, two bronze medals, together with a silver at the European Championships, and a silver at the 2017 World Championships. In the same year he also returns to beloved mountain, already practiced before the illness: climbing and mountaineering, and begins to dream of climbing Everest. In 2018 he began his preparation with mountains over 5000 meters (Chimborazo volcano in Ecuador). He is the first multi-amputation athlete to reach an altitude of 7300 meters (Putha Hiunchiuli in Nepal).

The other protagonist of the story is Massimo (Max) Coda, from Biella, born in 1970, who in 2010 was the victim of a serious accident in the mountains that compromised the functionality of his right leg. After an ordeal that lasted 8 years and 16 surgeries, with months of forced bed rest and the definitive loss of correct walking, despite the apparent recovery, in 2018 he decided to have his right limb amputated to return to climbing and climbing. Mountain climbing.

Both returned to full possession of their lives thanks to the prostheses, the two met during a race in Liguria at the beginning of 2019 and, given the common passion, they decide to climb together, without resorting to other rope companions. Thus, this year, in total autonomy, they launch the ambitious #fivepeaks 2020 project: reaching the peaks of Gran Paradiso, Mont Blanc, Punta Gnifetti, Monviso and Cervino. Only on the Gran Becca did they stop before the summit, at Pic Tyndall.

This is why the Club4000 board of directors has decided to appoint Lanfri and Coda as honorary members for 2020. Thinking of these extraordinary people who, barring Covid impediments, we will celebrate at the shareholders' meeting, scheduled for Saturday 21 November in Turin , one cannot fail to mention Oliviero Bellinzani (1955-2015), the "man with wings", already appointed honorary member of the Club, capable of climbing 21 four thousand peaks with an artificial limb.

Barre des Ecrins

Barre and Dôme des Écrins are unreachable

The ascent to the westernmost and southernmost giant of the Alps, in the Dauphiné (France), has been strongly discouraged for some weeks.

The usual path of the normal route had been already replaced since the beginning of the season by one that developed to the left of the notorious glacial ramp (because this ramp is under the great seracs that were, in the meantime, partially collapsed).

Then, on 29th July, the alternative route was also the subject of a collapse of other ice masses, which resulted in the death of 4 climbers.

Since then, the ascent to the summit from the side of the Écrins refuge has been unofficially prohibited.

The Club is now made up of 15 nations!

With the joining of the Polish Ewa Katarzyna Slubicka, the nations represented by our association increase to 15.

Of the 522 current members, the largest group is obviously represented by the Italians (421), followed by Swiss (45) and French (17).

In the queue, Poland now keeps company with Sweden and Albania.

Ewa Katarzyna Slubicka (born in 1961, however resident in Turin) reached 31 peaks, mainly in the company of the mountain guide Gianni Predan and other usual climbing partners.

Il Club 4000, Gruppo del Club Alpino Italiano, sezione di Torino, riunisce gli alpinisti che hanno salito almeno 30 vette superiori ai 4000 m sulle 82 dell'elenco ufficiale UIAA.

Il Club 4000 vuol essere il punto di riferimento e di incontro per scambi di informazioni, documentazione ed esperienze

tra i praticanti l'alpinismo in alta quota con particolare riferimento alle vette delle Alpi superiori ai 4000 metri.

© 2019 CAI Torino Tutti i diritti riservati.